Thread Repair

Submitted by bill on Fri, 05/22/2020 - 13:32

Thread repair on alternator bolts.

The bolts/washers (91611-61030) are discontinued at Toyota. I split an old die, used a small vise, stepped back a few threads and recut the ends inside out.

split die

 

 

June 11, 2016

Checked the alternator mounting bolts today, hit them with some Kroil - they don't seem too rusted up and seem to move. Look original too, number 6 or 9 on all three bolt heads I think. One bolt has always been bottomed out/loose, probably because of the missing hook/spacer. The alternator bracket is mounted flush with the head and the lifting hook goes on top of the alternator bracket, not behind it on the head.

 

alternator diagram

June 14, 2016

OK, so the PO strikes again. Pulled the top 2 bolts to mount the new engine lift hook from kiwidog. They came out but not too free and easy. Examined the ends of the bolts and the threads seemed a little strange, shiny worn on the ends and one bolt didn't seem to want to go back in easily. So I decided to pull the alternator, mounting bracket, clean everything up and check out all the threads more closely. I like to be careful with tapped holes in the block, etc.

I'm thinking somebody pulled the engine hook when working on the alternator in the past and tossed it. Then they reinstalled the bolts, the two top ones now being too long and just bottomed them out in the block, messing up the threads on the ends of the 2 top bolts. They could have at least added a few washers.

So chasing the threads with a tap in the block (carefully) and no available new hardware (for this anyway) from Toyota, can't get a die started cleanly on the bolt ends which are not in great shape.

 

worn thread 1

 

worn thread 2

 

worn thread 3

 

Vessel Screwdrivers

Vessel Screwdrivers

 

vessel detail

 

There's plenty of confusing chatter about JIS screwdrivers floating around. I'm still trying to get a handle on the "Japanese Industrial Standard" thing. In the process of reading a few articles from the motorcycle community, etc., there seems to be some doubt about the continued existence of JIS screwdrivers. It may be nobody (including Vessel) makes JIS drivers anymore? The Vessel drivers seem completely JIS-compatible but are not labeled or sold as "JIS". The general consensus out there seems to be any good modern screwdriver might work just as well?

 

 

vessel screwdriver

 

 

 

 

hand tools

Steel

Steel:

 

A-33 from Jan Muchnikoff 

A33 Back In Stock (April 2020). 

1 1/2” $48.00 per foot.           Flute Only 

1 1/4” $38.00 per foot.     Comes in flute and Hex

3/4” $20.00 per foot.       Comes in flute and Hex

Paypal  jan961@mac.com

917-807-8697

Instagram bklynmetal
website bklynmetal.com 

 

POPS KNIFE SUPPLY

Pops Knife Supply was started almost 40 years ago by James Poplin. 

https://popsknife.supplies

 

tool-group-class
materials

Adjustable Parallels

Adjustable Parallels

My old Starrett 154A Adjustable Parallels from the 1980s, great for any number of situations. Measuring the width of a cavity or as an adjustable Jo Block for a sine bar setup, etc.

adjustable

setup

Dash Pad Replacement

Submitted by bill on Tue, 04/07/2020 - 18:11

Dash Pad Replacement - windshield down?

January 2009

After a search for info on dash pad replacement, and almost tearing my old pad apart trying to get it off, I thought these notes might possibly help someone out. The stock dash on a cruiser has always been one of my favorite things about these old vehicles, and I just invested in a new main top pad (OEM) and finally found the lower right pad (missing in PO action) used, on-line (it's on the UPS truck).

Pulled the plastic knobs and the main lower screws (the ones you can see from the bottom) on the old top pad and I guess I thought it would just pop up and off. Others refer to using a screwdriver to slide in and disengage the hidden retaining clips - that wasn't working for me. I pulled around a bit on my pad, tried to find/see the hidden clips and it seemed like it was coming free for a while. What I was really doing was force-pulling the hidden hardware mounting screws (9) out of the pad, where the angled clip-strip is joined to the pad.

 

last screw

 

The missing solution for me was folding down the windshield, so one can actually see what's going on with the hidden hardware. In my case the hardtop's mounting screws were already out, so I pushed up the front hardtop, folded the windshield down and let the top fall back in place. Once in there I could see the sheet metal screws holding the clip-strip to the pad and how it was locked in place. Used a small angle-screwdriver to remove these screws and the pad came right off (unplugging the little dash light). You can then easily remove the angle strip with its integral locking clips (and see how they work). Mount the angle strip to the new pad (or back to the old one) and whole thing is ready to snap back in place as a unit on reassembly. It seems like a one way thing to me - made to push/snap on, but not to just pop off. Kind of an impressive setup, I didn't expect so much going on backside to just mount the pad.

 

dash screws

 

folded wind

 

Below, the clip area with pad removed... and the clip strip in place, viewed from down under.

clip strip area

 

Second photo (below) shows everything removed.

clip area top

 

The new OEM pad came from Toyota, under $400 with a small break (no hardware included). That was around January 2009 and I can only guess what's available now. In the past a few guys around here (Bay Area, California) seem to be buying up what Toyota has left and charging $500+ (and saying they are discontinued at Toyota).

Note some say the windshield does not need to fold down to replace the pad. I managed to lift the front enough (by myself) without removing the top completely. I lifted one side, then lifted the other with one hand and folded down the windshield. And if you're putting a new pad on, you need to remove that old strip (hardware) anyway to attach it to the new pad. I've not seen tons of FJ40 dash pads, but I've some with dash pads that rattled at the top. Mine was "factory tight" until I went pulling on it. My point is why pry around on the clips with the windshield up - if it can come apart easily with the windshield down and no stress on the pad? Pull hard enough and the metal that's bonded to the pad material will begin to come loose.

 

 

 

 

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